GEMS, BEADS, AND FINDINGS

EDUCATION ZONE 

Gems and Beads

Swarovski (and other European) Crystals

There are far cheaper crystals available on the market, many from China, but I believe nothing sparkles quite like European crystals, especially the bicone shape, which relies on precise cutting. Swarovski crystals have always been my favourites, but they recently discontinued supplying beads to all but large manufacturers. I have a limited supply of Swarovski crystals in stock, and I use them when I have sufficient amounts for a given project. There are a few, very high-quality substitutes, including Preciosa (Austrian) and Crystal Passions (Austrian). They are available in a large range of shapes, sizes, colours and coatings, to coordinate with any design. Whether you prefer the subtle shimmer of a few crystal accents, or the full-on bling of a necklace dripping with the gems, European crystals will make you shine.

Genuine, Synthetic and Imitation Pearls:

Nothing beats the elegance of real pearls. Although they can be expensive and hard to work with (they are made with much smaller holes than other beads, because they are sold by weight), they have a lustre and feel that just can’t be matched by imitations. There are several different types of genuine pearls, including:

Saltwater Pearls – These are the most expensive pearls on the market. While they can be dyed, they are most often available in softer tones of white, peach, pink and grey. Natural saltwater pearls are made by mollusks, with no assistance from humans. They can be irregular shapes and colours. They are rare, and hard to find. Nucleated, or cultured, saltwater pearls are farmed, made by inserting a bead or a sliver of pearl into the mollusk, to stimulate pearl production. Cultured pearls can achieve much more regular, rounded shapes, because of the bead inside them. Most genuine pearls used in jewelry are cultured pearls.

Care must be taken when wearing genuine pearls, so that they do not discolour. Avoid contact with perfumes, lotions and other liquids.

Because of their cost, I do not inventory saltwater pearls, but I will custom order them for clients who are looking for true luxury.

Freshwater Pearls – as the name indicates, freshwater pearls are made by mollusks living in fresh water. They tend to have a more uneven shape than saltwater pearls, contributing to their unique appearance. They are also frequently dyed in a wide range of colours, from subtle to vibrant. They are significantly less expensive than saltwater pearls, but they are still lustrous and beautiful. Freshwater pearls, like their saltwater cousins, can also be natural or cultured. The same care should be taken as with saltwater pearls, to maintain colour and lustre.

Synthetic vs Imitation Pearls:

Synthetic gemstones are gemstones that are made by man but have a natural counterpart. They possess the same physical, chemical and optical properties as a natural stone. Imitation pearls and stones are gemstones that try and look like real natural gemstones, but they are made of an entirely different material.

Synthetic pearls are called Shell Pearls, or Nacre Pearls, and they are made from the inner lining of oyster shells, also known as Mother of Pearl. The substance is ground to a fine powder, shaped, dyed and coated with natural pearl nacre and then a protective coating, to give it lustre. Shell pearls, like most everything, vary in quality but may be quite beautiful, and they are much less expensive than saltwater pearls. In addition, the industry’s strict quality control ensures shell pearls will keep their color and shine and will not be affected by sweat and perfume. Indeed, they are more durable than cultured and freshwater pearls. (Source) They are also more regular in shape, mimicking the “perfect” sphere of cultured saltwater pearls.

Imitation Pearls are be made of many different materials, from crystal and glass to acrylic and even plastic.

In my opinion, the very best imitation pearls are made in Europe, by Swarovski, Preciosa and Crystal Passions.

These European pearls, also known as crystal pearls, are imitation pearls created by using a crystal at the center, rather than a plastic bead. Using crystals yields a surprisingly realistic imitation pearl. These simulated pearls are evenly shaped, like cultured saltwater pearls, but they are considerably less expensive, and they come in a much wider variety of sizes and colors. Because each pearl is created by using a crystal bead, it is easy to attain the perfect size and weight. Once the properly sized crystal spheres are selected, each sphere is layered with several coats of mother of pearl. The crystal base at the center is the factor that sets these imitation pearls apart from others. Each completed crystal pearl exhibits a more luminous appearance than other imitation pearls.

As is the case with genuine, cultured pearls, the temperature of crystal pearls changes to reflect the temperature of the wearer’s skin. This quality is one reason jewelry lovers cherish genuine pearls. The realistic color, luster and feel of crystal pearls are also major selling points.

And unlike cheaper imitation pearls, crystal pearls are washable and are not susceptible to damage from perfume or perspiration. They are also resistant to scratches. (Source)

Glass pearls, like crystal pearls, are more uniformly shaped than genuine freshwater pearls. They also come in many shapes and sizes, and they offer an even wider array of colours, especially very deep and vivid hues.

I generally prefer to work with genuine freshwater pearls and crystal pearls, as I find they look, feel and wear beautifully, at a much more affordable price than their cultured saltwater alternatives. European crystal pearls are an excellent substitute, especially if one desires the perfect, uniform shape, a particular colour, added durability or affordability. Occasionally, I will use high-quality glass pearls when a customer wants a very deep or rich colour that isn’t available in genuine or crystal pearls. I will always identify the type of stone used in a piece.

Other Gemstones

As with pearls, semi-precious gemstones (e.g., jade, jasper, tiger’s eye, lapis, turquoise) are available as natural stones, synthetics (man-made, but with the same chemical properties) and imitation. Synthetic stones are often of more uniform shape and colour, with fewer flaws, than their natural counterparts and are more readily available and affordable. Whenever possible, I use high-quality natural or synthetic stones, but I will use premium quality imitations when a particular size, shape or colour is requested, or to meet a client’s budgetary constraints. I will always identify the type of stone I am using.

Clasps

I use a range of clasp types, to meet my customers’ tastes, budgets and special requirements. Most clasp types are available in a variety of metallic colours (e.g., gold, silver, brass/copper), finishes (e.g., shiny, antiqued) and materials (e.g., base metals, gold and silver plate, filled gold and silver, sterling, 10, 14 and 24 K gold). Prices vary dramatically, depending on shape, size, degree of ornateness and, of course, material). I stock a variety of clasps, but I will special order upon request.

Lobster claw

A simple, sturdy, economical clasp. Best when you want to keep the attention on the beads and away from the closure. A very secure clasp, even for heavier pieces. Lobster claw clasps may also be combined with an extender chain, making the necklace or bracelet length adjustable (ideal for gifts, if you do not know the recipient’s exact size). They may be difficult for some wearers to use, especially on bracelets, particularly for those with dexterity limitations.

S-hook

A more decorative clasp than the lobster claw, the s-hook may be plain or ornate. It is easier to use than a lobster claw for those with dexterity limitations, but it is somewhat less secure. The open parts of the clasp may be squeezed more closely together, which decreases the chance of the rings slipping off the hook but makes the clasp more difficult to use.

Magnetic

Magnetic clasps come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes and designs. They are very easy to use, and so are well suited to those with dexterity limitations, but they are more expensive. Care must also be taken to slide or bend magnetic claps apart gently, or the magnetic may be ripped from its casing.

And while it is very tempting to use magnetic clasps on bracelets, because they are easy to put on by oneself, I try to avoid doing so. I lost a lovely crystal bracelet because its magnetic clasp stuck to a metal chair, and I never felt it pull off my wrist. I will use a magnetic clasp on a bracelet upon request, but consider yourself warned!

Toggle

Toggle clasps consist of an open shape (circle, oval, heart, square, etc.) on one end, and a long, narrow bar on the other. They work by inserting the bar into the opening and allowing it to “catch.” If you’re having trouble visualizing how it works, here’s a short video from Beadaholique. Toggle clasps are quite secure when closed properly, and they can be highly decorative. I sometimes use them as a focal point for my necklaces. I often use toggles for bracelets, because they are easier to use without assistance, but they are only suitable if the bracelet is made to a precise length (not good for a surprise gift, if you don’t know the recipient’s wrist size). For an adjustable fit, select a lobster clasp with an extender chain. Other types of clasps include box, slide, button and screw, and are available as special orders.

Types of Metal

I use a wide variety of metals in my designs, for clasps, jump rings (small rings used to link beads or other components) and beads. Metals can be divided into Precious (e.g., gold, silver, rhodium, platinum) and Base (e.g., copper, bronze, brass, pewter) categories. Precious metals are considerably more expensive than base metals. For affordability, coatings of precious metals can be applied to base metals, for beautiful shine and appearance. Types of coatings include filled gold or silver gold- and silver-plate, and gold or silver finished.

Types of Coating – Gold

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Gold plating is the catch-all term for a process in which a layer of gold is bonded to a base metal by dipping the metal into a special chemical solution and zapping it with an electric current, attracting and adhering gold ions to the metal. To be considered gold plated, the gold layer should measure at least 0.5 microns (a micron is one millionth of a meter, for context). The thicker the gold layer, the longer it maintains its finish.

Gold-filled means that a thin sheet of gold is mechanically bonded to the outside of a core material (usually copper). Whereas gold plating is measured in thickness, gold-filled jewelry is measured in weight; the gold layer must contribute at least 5% to the item’s total weight. 

Also known as “heavy gold plating,” gold vermeil employs the same process as gold plating. To be called “vermeil”, the item must have sterling silver (aka 925 silver) as the base metal, the gold must be at least 10K and the plating must measure a certain thickness. National consumer protection agencies regulate the label. In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission requires a layer of gold that is at least 2.5 microns thick. In Canada, the Competition Bureau allows items with only 1.0 micron plating thickness to be called “gold vermeil”.

Solid gold  items have an inside that is not hollow. The karatage (represented with a “k”) will tell you the proportion of gold to other metals. The other metals are mixed in to make the piece harder and more durable. 

• 24k gold is pure gold but it’s too soft and susceptible to scratches, so it’s not practical for everyday use. It’s also very orange in colour
• 18k gold is 18 parts of gold to 6 parts other metal (i.e. 75% gold)
• 14k gold is 14 parts of gold to 10 parts other metal (i.e. 58.3% gold)

Gold finished items are electroplated with a layer of gold that has no standard thickness. The thickness of the gold plating on an item can either let the base metal show through or conceal the color of the base metal entirely. (Source) I offer gold- and silver-finished glass seed beads as an upgrade on many designs, as their added shine creates a truly premium look.

Because of their very high cost, I do not keep an inventory of solid gold items in stock, but they may be
special-ordered upon request.

Types of Coating – Silver

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Fine silver is the highest and most pure type of silver available: 99.9% silver. This pure form of silver is used by the Hill Tribes of Thailand to create beads, chains and findings.

Sterling silver items are made of 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper or some other metal (or metals). Those proportions are set by law–change the proportions and those beads aren’t sterling silver. A clue that you’ve got sterling silver beads? Over time, sterling silver will take on an antiqued look (called a “patina”). Most of the precious silver you’ll see in the beading world is sterling silver. Please note: sterling silver tarnishes and must be cleaned and polished regularly.

Sterling silver-filled items are an alternative to fine and sterling silver components, with selections including beads, pendants, jump rings, ear wires and more. These pieces are manufactured with an outer layer of sterling silver (.925/20) over a copper-alloy core. The findings have additional silver plating for uniformity. Sterling silver-filled items are also usually finished with an anti-tarnish coating.

Silver plate is a fine silver film deposited on a base metal by electrolysis, in the same kind of electrically-charged bath used to make gold electroplate. The film can be as thin as seven millionths of an inch. 

Silver filled means a mechanical bonding with a silver alloy of at least 92.5 percent fineness. The bonding must be equal to at least one-twentieth of the metal in the article. 

In silver-finished items, the base is brass, steel or glass, and the product is electroplated with a non-standardized thickness of silver.

Rhodium plating can sometimes appear in jewelry and in jewelry components as a whiteness protectant or as an anti-tarnish coating. Some jewelry wearers are sensitive to this metal. Rhodium-plating draws on the imagery of silver–of coolness and sleekness–and gives a high-end glossiness to economy pieces.

I carry a range of sterling silver, silver plated and rhodium plated items in stock, as well as silver-finished glass seed beads